greenland NANSEN

East to west across Greenland in the fall is where Polar Exploration really started. That is where Nansen crossed in 1888. And until today that stands out as the most important ski expedition in history. But it is way harder and more technical, so if you have conquered The Inland Ice (in the fall) you are ready for everything!

This trip starts with the crevassed eastern icefall up from Isortoq. Well up on the polar plateau we turn gradually west-south-west and aim for the rarely visited DYE III. From there we tag onto Nansen’s route, Finnish the plateau and head into the western icefall described so vividly in Nansen’s famous book, ‘On ski across Greenland’.

We hit land the same place as Nansen and his team did, and follow the increasingly lush Adventsadalen towards the fjord. On the way we lit bonfires, catch fish and round off this unique trip in the best way possible.

Down by the fjord, we are picked up by a boat and taken out to Nuuk - or Godthåb, as it was called when Nansen arrived there.

Be aware that these challenging Icefalls, vast planes, surprising altitude and very changeable and often severe conditions is a formidable task. The trip will give you lots of experience, happiness, an insight into the importance of teamwork and even tidy up the inside of yourself. But it is only for the very dedicated, who put it the enquired training and planning and have an approved skill base.

Expedition details

This is a different challenge. This is the same time of year Nansen and his men fought to be the first to cross the big and unknown White. He chose the East coast as the starting point, not for its climate- and condition advantages at this time of the year, but for the simple fact that with very few inhabitants, turning back and overwintering was no option. Proclaiming "The west coast or Death" they set out – and succeeded.

Everyone crossing at this time of the year will fully comprehend the task, the effort and the heroics of the 1888 pioneers.

So If you are this tiny bit more adventurous, this is the time for you to go!

We will meet up in Tasiilaq on mid-August and set off by boat 2 days later towards Isortoq, where we will camp right under the icecap. The next morning, we start off and through the next days we "play chess" with the Icefall. Rivers and streams at first, then rolling landscape with ice like a rough sea suddenly frozen into a wild theme-park before the big crevasses try to bar us from the snowfields higher up. This part of the trip is hard, a tremendous and satisfying challenge.

Once we are up on good snow, distances increase as we slowly gather altitude. The wind is trying to push us back, but as we get closer to the ‘Summit’ at approximately 2500-2600 meters, the wind comes from all kinds of directions. This is often due to interaction between the autumn low pressures that hit Greenland from Canada on one side and other storms playing between Iceland and Greenland on the other. It sharpens our senses, and we learn to go with the flow and maximize the conditions when they are extra good.

After some three weeks, and on our west-south-west course, we pass DYE III. The station is now gradually being taken over by the polar plateau and only the radar is seen form a distance. It looks like a big, white ball sitting on the snow!

The area is very rarely visited compared to DYE II where most other trips pass by.  The “goofy” building is hard to access but defensively an adventure in itself.

Normally the first periods of cold set in late in August. This immediately slows down the melting process, and the huge rivers dwindle into small streams and the lakes up on the plateau will hopefully be frozen over.

As we are closing in to the west coast, we will see the first signs of the summer-melting. Slowly the terrain starts dropping off and the surface gets more sculpted. By the time we drop down to the Icefall, the huge gullies left open by the melting rivers makes us work hard for progress. Further down we will meet, and cross riverbeds and wild ice giving us testing detours and big jumps. At this point the spirit better be high as this labour is not for sissies…

Sometimes progress is reduced to a scant kilometre in several hours. But with land is in sight, this spurs us on.  

As we step off the ice we are in awe of Nansen and his team who set foot at the same place more than 130 years ago. The day is mid-September mark the end of season as the Inland ice goes into ‘no-go’ modus for the winter.

For us a new adventure awaits. We trade heavy ski boots with light sneakers. We leave most equipment behind and start our 3-day trek down Austmannadalen. Moraine terrain is gradually turning into vegetation as we follow a stream towards the sea. On our way we bring out the fishing rod and dinner will be cooked on a real bonfire. The smells, the peace and the change in landscape makes this truly remarkable days.

After our last night at the famous Nansen’s Campsite, we arrive at the hunter’s camp down by the fjord. This last little rendezvous brings us as close to the real Greenland as possible.

Then the boat arrives and brings us out to Nuuk by the sea for the first beer, first shower and a big celebration meal! And that is well earned as you will have completed what is defined as a FULL Greenland Ski Crossing Expedition – coast to coast. Most other do only the icecap crossing.

Day by day

Day -3 and -2. Travelling via Iceland (at least for participants coming from the East) our meeting- and start point will be in Tasiilaq, a very picturesque town and the ‘capital’ of Greenland east coast. When we alle are together, we head straight for the store. The rest of the time is packing and preparing, - but we will not miss out on our last served meal in a restaurant before we go towards the Ice!

Day -1. The first half of the day is all about finishing preparations and change into the expedition clothing that will stay on for the next 4 weeks plus. Then we put the clean “civilian” clothes in the mail to be sent to the other side. Then we go for lunch.

In the afternoon we board a small boat and leave for the Isortoq area. This is a spectacular and wonderful experience as we pass lots of icebergs. Depending on the ice, we arrive in the fjord inside Isortoq (a tiny, but very authentic hunting and fishing village) in early evening. From the shore we carry everything a short climb up to a local cabin where we plan to stay the night. We say plan, as both storms and local festivities may have rendered it uninhabitable.

Day 1. Early the next morning we set off. We walk on foot on hard and icy surface. The first part is easy, but later in the day the ice roughens as we start gaining altitude. How far we get is impossible to plan. Sometimes the winter has dumped lots of snow and combined with a cold summer the crevasses can be mostly filled up. If the contrary is the case, and with extreme melting during summer, we may be facing huge crevasses, melt rivers and even crevasses filled with water! It is never the less a wonderful game of chess against a cunning opponent called "Mother Earth"!

What is for sure is that we will be up against some pretty wild, bumpy and challenging surface that will test out our stamina and mind-set.

Day 2-3 (approx.). Second and / or third day on the ice we negotiate the field with the biggest crevasses. Here we will have to zigzag a lot and find the safest way. But on the other side we can normally have good use of the skis and start to make real progress.

Day 4-9. Even out of the lower icefall, we have to work hard. On the big rolling hills we rapidly gain altitude, and normally the ski-conditions are good. Gradually we are out of the coastal zone and the chance of rain is diminishing as the polar climate takes over.

We hardly recognize that the last mountains disappear under the horizon as we now are focused on the west and the plains.

We are heading into the katabatic wind zone, and get little rest till the landscape gradually eases out. 

Having reached a safe altitude Day 5 / 6), we leave the standard route and gradually turn west and then west south west towards DYE III.

After some 10 days the wind fluctuates, the weather hesitates as we get closer to the highest point. This is called ‘Summit’ and is a long and rounded ridge going in south-north direction up Greenland. In the fall, the low pressures hitting Greenland from Canada in the west, and the low pressures building up between Iceland and Greenland fight for supremacy and can play games with us…

Normally we put in a rest day in this area, but instead of planning it we let the weather decide what day is best.

Day 10-13. As we clear the highest area the winds stabilizes (normally) and start coming in from the side. At the same time we move into the flattest part of the journey. These plains here are beautiful and we do great distances. If the weather is good, DYE III will show at the horizon when we are several days away! It comes and goes a bit, but this makes navigation so much easier / if the weather permits 🥶. 

As we get there we camp and may enjoy half a rest day. Apart from having a look at the monstrous relic from the cold war, we go over the equipment, sleep, eat and drink.

Day 14-20. When we are approaching the western side we will come across the first lakes filled with water from the summer. They are frozen up (hopefully) but give an indication that more is to come. Over the next days the ice roughens again as we start losing altitude. We do great distances, but from year to year there can be huge differences in the amount of havoc the melting has done to the ice. If the summer has been cold and the frost has arrived early with snow, we may get to 70km from land with few obstacles. If the contrary is the case the fight begins here, and the ice looks like a stormy ocean frozen up in a millisecond. Sometimes even with small rivers and ice slush areas. It is hard work but at the same time just incredibly fascinating!

Day 21-25/30? Exactly how many days we will use, are as you may understand, impossible to predict. But that is the greatness of the autumn crossing. If your mind can take this and not getting downcast by one surprise after another, then you know you are bred for bigger things!

As we dip into the icefall the smaller rivers grow in sizes and we have to negotiate big riverbeds 10-20 meters wide, hopefully with only some water still left as the mega melting from the plateau should have stopped by now.

Having sighted land for the first time we are spurred on, and stretch the days to muster everything as we fight our way through this Disneyland of Ice. Sometimes it may take hours to complete just a kilometre, but the satisfaction of fighting our way gradually closer is immense! And as we step off the ice in unison, we feel the biggest accomplishment!

Here we repack into light boots, backpack and only the very essential equipment. The skis, sledges etc is bundled up and picked up by a helicopter. This makes the last stretch like a fairy-tale dessert.

Day 26/29. We leisurely trek down the valley for ca 3 days. Fishing, talking, thinking and really digesting this amazing journey. It is so closely linked to the history, it has so many facets, so many different challenges - the last days enhances the perception of what we have been through and what is the most unique Greenland crossing available.

After 3 days and 50km we arrive down by the fjord and by that completes a full coast to coast crossing.

The boat ride out to Nuuk is the first taste of civilisation, Nuuk is the second. And a big one as such!

The flight back to Copenhagen (again, for most of us) does not leave every day. And since we do not know if we will use 32 or 35 days, we recommend tickets that you can change.

Then we head for home (all letting the adventure sink in and – pondering where to go next?).

What is included:

We do all paperwork and cover the fees (applications, permits for the crossing, radio / communication, weapons) and pay the Search & Rescue; We will supply: food, sledges, tents, stoves, fuel, safety equipment like Iridium satellite phone, emergency beacon, VHF radio, GPSs, InReach Trackers, maps and waypoints; The 2 boat rides and helicopter lift in included; We are responsible for the medical bag, spares and rep bag + a training weekend - and we answer to every question you may have.

What is not included:

You bring your own personal clothing, skis, boots and poles, sleeping bag, mattress and stuff-bags. You choose and pay your own flights and pay for board and lodging during the days right before and after the ice, and training weekend. You must have your own travel / cancellation/medical evacuation insurance in case of personal accidents or injury. You may be asked to contribute if you have food allergies, intolerance, etc, so that we can be sure you have enough, safe and high-quality food. Any unforeseen delays or change of plan by the group may also result in extra cost. We recommend return tickets that can be changed or a wide margin at the end of the trip.

THE PRICE:

• The final price depend on when you book, confirm and send final payment. The later this is the harder and more complicated all our logistics get (permits, team composition, guides, equipment to buy and send, etc.), so rates are:

Trip paid in full before 1st February: TBA€
Paid 1st February to 20th March: TBA€
Trip paid in full after 20th March: TBA€
• In any case, the expedition fee must be paid in full no later than 90+ days before departure (minus the already paid deposit)
• The price for 2025 and onwards is not set, but take a 3-5% increase into account to be on the safe side for following years

The Deposit:

We will send you a Deposit Invoice of 1.800 €_Euro at the time of booking. The system works as follows: Your Booking Form will give you a place in the queue. But it is not binding in any way. It only gets serious as you receive a Deposit Invoice. This is non-refundable according to our Travel Conditions. But once paid it means you are in, and the trip is on! Final payment due 6 months before the start, mid-February, or as detailed above.

All payment and deposit details subject and according to our travel terms and conditions.